A-Z Glossary of Skin

A

Antioxidant

• Has the ability to neutralise damage-causing cells within the body. Examples of antioxidants include Vitamin A, B, C, D and E.

Vitamin A

• Infamously known as an all round anti-ageing ingredient. Vitamin A is a cell regulator.

Acne

• A common chronic, inflammatory skin condition ranging in severity. Acne can present  itself as blackheads, whiteheads, papules, nodules and cysts.

Acne Scarring

• Permanent damage to the skin’s texture with indentations that occur as a result of severe acne

Allergic Contact Dermatitis

• Red, dry, itchy and irritated skin as a result of constant contact with an allergen specific to that person. Usually occurs 1-2 days after exposure.

Ageing Skin

• Ageing skin is an internal process, where there is a decrease in our skin’s structural components. However, internal skin ageing can be super-imposed when subject to chronic sun exposure- called photoageing.

Anti-wrinkle Injections

• The use of a substance preventing the contraction of a muscle, therefore minimising physical signs of wrinkles.

Alpha Hydroxy Acid

• A type of molecule that interferes with the bonding of our skin cells, encouraging cell renewal and hydration.

Ascorbic Acid

• Also known as Vitamin C. Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant and collagen forming ingredient.

Atopic Dermatitis

• Also known as ‘eczema’. The is skin is inflamed presenting with patches of dryness, redness, soreness and itching. Atopic Dermatitis can occur alongside asthma and hayfever.

Azelaic Acid

• Naturally occurring in barley, wheat and rye, Azelaic acid is a hero ingredient with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects. Often used in the treatment of acne and rosacea.

Actinic Keratoses

• Pre-cancerous lesions that develop as a result from long-term exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. They typically appear as rough, dry and/or scaly patches on the skin.

B

Vitamin B

• There are many forms of Vitamin B. In skin care the most common is Niacinamide (B3) and Pantothenic Acid (B5). Vitamin B3 works well as a pigment inhibitor and anti-inflammatory, while B5 works topically to hydrate and repair the skin barrier.

Beta Glucan

• Derived from yeasts and oats, Beta Glucan is a potent skin immune booster, anti-inflammatory and intense hydrator.

BBL

• Broad Band Light, similar to IPL (Intense Pulsed Light). This is not a laser, but is a form of light technology. BBL is known to treat multiple skin concerns and conditions such as pigmentation, general rejuvenation, vascular lesions, and hair reduction.

BCC

• Basal Cell Carcinoma, a form of non-melanoma skin cancer arising in our skin. This type of skin cancer is the most common in Australia and will form on sun-exposed areas.

Biopsy (shave, curette)

• A biopsy is a technique used by medical doctors  to remove a small portion of tissue for the examination of disease or investigation. There are multiple ways to perform a biopsy which include a punch, shave or curette.

Benzyl Peroxide

• Benzyl peroxide is known for its astringent anti bacterial properties. Used commonly in the management of acne.

Beta Hydroxy Acid

• A type of molecule used to disrupt the outer shell of our skin cells, causing them to shed off. Useful in unclogging blocked pores due to its oil-loving nature.

C

Capillaries

• Capillaries are tiny blood vessels, one cell thick connecting our arteries to our veins as well as function in the exchange of gases and nutrients.

Chemical Peels

• An umbrella term that encompasses a variety of chemical compounds which resurface the skin. Common types include; glycolic acid, lactic acid and salicylic acid peels.

Cholasma

• Also referred to as Melasma. A type of patchy pigmentation appearing in a symmetrical pattern on the face and is induced commonly by hormones and UV exposure.

Cosmeceuticals

• A type of product or formulation which contains active ingredients that can have an effect on cellular function.

Cysts (Epidermal, Acne)

• A benign, deep seated lesion seen in severe acne. It contains fluid, or semi-fluid material and can be firm to touch and tender.

Ceramides

• A waxy lipid molecule abundant in our cellular membranes throughout our body. Ceremide’s in our skin are essential to helping the skin maintain its barrier-like properties.

Collagen

• A type of connective tissue made up of protein. Collagen is abundant throughout our skin and body (bones, skin, muscles, tendons, and ligaments) and is what provides strength, structure and support.

Comedones

• A clogged follicle on the skin composed of skin debris and oil. It can be referred to as a closed comedone or open comedone. Open comedones are commonly known as blackheads due to the oxidation of our skins oil in the pore whereas closed comedones are usually white or flesh coloured as they are covered over with skin, therefore not oxidising

D

Dermis

• The dermis lies underneath the epidermis (top layer of skin) and contains blood vessels, hair follicles, nerve endings, lymphatic vessels, sweat glands and more. The dermis provides all of the nutrients to the epidermis.

Dermatitis

• Also referred to as Eczema. Dermatitis refers to itchy, inflamed skin and can be acute or chronic. There are many variants of dermatitis such as; contact irritant dermatitis, allergic contact dermatitis, atopic dermatitis.

E

Exfoliation vs Exfoliate

• Exfoliation is a process that our skin undergoes naturally in order to produce new, healthy cells. Exfoliation can also occur as a result of the application of a topical product which encourages our skin to exfoliate.

Epidermis

• The epidermis the outermost layer of our skin, the interface between the human internal environment and the outside world.

Excision

• The action of removing a skin lesion with a surgical blade.

Elastin

• It is a type of connective tissue protein allowing tissue to recoil back to their original shape after stretching or contracting. Elastin can be found in our dermis.

Emollient

• A technical term for moisturiser. It is a product that is used to relieve, soften or add moisture to the skin.

F

Filler

• In cosmetics, dermal filler is used to add or correct volume where it is lost. A common type of filler is hyaluronic acid.

Fractionated Laser

• A fractionated laser distributes the light in columns on the skin to increase healing time. It can be both ablative or non-ablative.

Fraxel

• A brand of fractional laser technology

Folliculitis

• A fungal or bacterial infection effecting the hair follicles. The clinical appearance will include, inflamed, pustular pimples occasionally alongside itchiness or pain.

Ferulic Acid

• A potent plant based antioxidant that is derived from seeds of apples and oranges.

Fibroblast

• A type of cell producing collagen and elastin fibres to support our tissues. It also has a role in wound healing and inflammatory responses.

Follicle

• A follicle is a small cavity, sac or gland

Fatty Acids

• With regards to our skin, the cellular membranes contain free fatty acids. These are essential to the integrity of the overall skin barrier.

G

Glycolic Acid

• A type of alpha hydroxy acid. Glycolic acid is a small molecule, interfering with the bonds holding our skin cells together. They encourage cellular turnover and hydration.

H

Hirsutism

• A condition affecting women that results in excessive hair growth in a male-like pattern on the face, chest and back.

Hyperhidrosis

• Abnormal, excessive sweating not usually relating to heat or exercise.

Hyaluronic Acid

• A natural sugar found in our skin, holding up to 100x its weight in water. Used commonly in cosmetic formulations to promote hydration.

Hydroquinone

• A potent ingredient used to reduce pigmentation in the skin by inhibiting the conversion of tyrosine enzyme (the enzyme that begins the pigment making process).

Hyperpigmentation

• The excess pigment seen on the skin due to chronic UV exposure or from injury.

Hypopigmentaiton

• Is the result of a reduction in melanin production (skin disease – vitiligo, skin conditions – acne scarring) or can be a result from trauma (surgical scarring, injury).

I

Injectables

• The injection of a substance into the body for either cosmetic or therapeutic requirements.

IPL

• Intense Pulsed Light is a form of light technology. IPL uses a wide range of wavelengths to treat a multitude of skin treatments such as general rejuvenation, vascularity’s,  pigmentation and hair reduction.

Inflammation

• Inflammation is the initial phase of the wound healing cascade and is normal and essential. Inflammation is marked by redness, pain, heat and swelling. Excessive or chronic inflammation is when it becomes concerning and deviates from normal.

J

Jessner’s Peel

• An advanced chemical peel that is a combination formulation. New formulations of Jessner include lactic acid, salicylic acid and resorcinol. These ingredients works to exfoliate the skin, lighten pigmentation and increase hydration.

K

Keloid Scarring

• A raised scar that develops after injury to the skin, such as acne or surgical incisions. A keloid scar is caused by the body’s excessive production of collagen (a protein found in skin) during healing.

Keratosis Pilaris

• A common although harmless skin condition that causes rough, bumpy spots on the upper arms and thighs. It is often a result of abnormal keratinisation of the lining of the upper portion of the hair follicle. Keratosis pilaris tends to be more prominent during times of low humidity, such as in the winter months

Keratin

• The main protein found in skin, hair and nails. It helps to hold skin cells together to form a barrier and also forms the outermost layer of the skin which protects from environmental damage.

Kojic Acid

• An ingredient originally derived from fungi that has the ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity in synthesis of melanin. It is commonly used to treat sin conditions such as melasma and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

L

Lactic Acid

• A mild AHA that helps to improve skin tone and texture. Lactic acid can hydrate and address pigmentary concerns. It can be found in homecare products at low concentrations or in-clinic chemical peels at high concentrations.

Laser Resurfacing

• Non-ablative laser skin resurfacing targets only the dermis, leaving the epidermis intact. These systems have a good safety profile and rapid recovery post-treatment.

Laser

• “Laser” is an acronym for Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation. Laser devices have many uses for different dermatological conditions.

LED

• Is an acronym for Light Emitting Diode.  This treatment can utilize varying wavelengths to provide rejuvenation to the skin.  Commonly used LED treatment wavelengths include; red, blue and yellow.

Lentigo Maligna Melanoma

• Is a superficial melanoma where the melanoma cells are located in the epidermis (superficial layer of the skin)

Lymphatics (SALT)

• SALT represents ‘skin associated lymphatic tissue’. This tissue is especially concerned with the several types of lymphatic cells and tissues which interact with skin cells help to perpetuate a response when necessary.

M

Microneedling

• Utilizes fine needles or a dermaroller to create tiny holes in the skin.  This procedure is designed to stimulate collagen and increase vibrancy to the skin.  Superficial microneedling can also be used to introduce skincare ingredients to the skin.

Melanoma

• Is a form of skin cancer which originates in the melanocytes.

Melasma

• Is a condition which mainly affects the face and presents as hyperpigmented patches.

Moles

• Form when melanocytes grow in a cluster.  Moles are also called melanocytic naevus and these lesions can either be rough, flat or raised.

Moisturiser

• Is designed to lubricate and hydrate the skin.

Melanin

• Is pigment procedure by the melanocytes.

Melanocytes

• Is a melanin forming skin cell.

N

Naevus

• Is the medical term for a mole.  In Latin, Naevus is defined as birthmark however a naevus can either be present at birth or acquired later in life.

Niacinamide

• Otherwise known as Vitamin B3, it is commonly used for its anti-inflammatory and hydration effects.

Non-Comedogenic

• Is considered as something which does not cause clogging to the pores in the skin.

O

Oily Skin

• Is defined by excess oil production within the skin.  This can present as a shiny or greasy facial appearance.  Hormones, medication, skin care ingredients and diet can all affect the oil production within the skin.

Organic Skincare

• Is defined as ingredients which are organically grown and free from fertilizers and pesticides.

P

Perioral dermatitis

• An inflammatory skin condition which affects the skin surrounding the mouth.  It is not uncommon for this rash to spread up to the nose or even closer to the eyes. It appears as a red, dry scaling rash.

Phototherapy

• Emits a special type of light.  Phototherapy is prescribed to treat psoriasis, eczema/dermatitis, vitiligo.  The most common type prescribed is Ultraviolet B (UVB)

Pigmentation

• Refers to any colour (pigment) within the skin. Pigment can vary as either hypopigmentation or hyperpigmentation.

Poiklioderma of Civatte

• Refers to mottling appearance of skin on the neck and décolletage.  Mottling varies with erythema (redness) and hyperpigmentation (darkening of the natural skin colour).

Port Wine Stain

• Can be considered as a birthmark which is caused by a vascular abnormality (capillary vascular malformation).

Psoriasis

• Is a chronic auto-immune condition which causes an excess build up of skin cells.  Inflammation can build up around the excess build up of skin cells which presents as a plaque.

Parabens

• Are commonly used in cosmetics and pharmaceutical products to act as a perseverative.

Peptides

• Are short-string amino acids which act as the building blocks that make up a protein. Important proteins in the skin are collagen, elastin and keratin.

Photoageing

• Is premature ageing of the skin which is caused by repeated trauma caused by sunlight (ultravoilet rays).

Phosphatidylcholine

• Is considered a water binding agent which aids absorption of skin care ingredients.

Q

Quinquad folliculitis decalvans

• A rare chronic inflammatory condition through the development of alopecia in patches on the scalp.

Q10

• Coenzyme Q 10 when absorbed internally and externally increases cell energy production and promotes anitoxidant protection.

R

Retinol (Vitamin A)

• Is an anti-aging molecule which can accelerate skin renewal.  Retinoids reduce fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating production of collagen.

Rosacea

• Is an inflammatory skin condition which presents as facial redness and flushing.  It can also cause small, red pustules.  It causes small blood vessels to become more visible.

Resveratrol

• Is another powerhouse antioxidant. On a cellular level, Resveratrol works to combat ageing and increase wound healing capabilities of the skin.

S

Scarring

• Occurs when there is trauma to the dermis.  This causes the body to create new collagen fibres to heal the trauma.  Scars can either be flat, raised, depressed, pigmented, red or even skin colour.

Serum

• Are designed to deliver high concentrations of active ingredients to the skin.  Serums are often a clear, thin consistency in comparison to moisturisers. For maximum benefit, serums should be applied prior to thicker products.

Salicyclic Acid

• Is a type of Beta Hydroxy Acid.  It acts as a chemical exfoliator and can work to break down excessive sebum, dirt and dead skin cells.

Stretch Marks

• Happen when the skin is pulled or stretched rapidly.  As a result can appear following rapid growth spurts, pregnancy or weight gain.

Sebacceous Hyperplasia

• Are englarged sebacceous glands which can be seen on the forehead or cheeks on ageing skin.

Seborrhoeic Keratoses

• Are benign skin growth.  They can present as flat or raised lesions, 1mm to several centimeters in diameters, skin coloured, yellow, grey, light brown, black or even mixed colours, smooth or waxy in surface, wart-like.

Skin cancers

• Are abnormal, out-of-control growth of cells in the epidermis which are caused by unrepaired DNA damage which triggers the mutations within cells. Skin cancers can form from excessive sun exposure and sun burn.  There is also a genetic link to the likely of forming skin cancers.

Sunburn

• Is the skins reaction to excessive UV exposure.

Spider Veins

• Are small, benign, damaged veins which can appear anywhere on the body.

SCC

• Squamous Cell Carcinoma is one of the most common skin cancers.  It is caused by uncontrolled growth of abnormal squamous cells.

SPF

• SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. It is a measurement to determine the levels of UVB and UVA protection and sunscreen can give.

T

Telengectasias

• Are small dilated blood vessels which appear obvious from the skin.  Telengectasias can have causes which have no underlying diseases however can be associated with rosacea, ageing skin, genetics, pregnancy and sun damage.

Tinea

• Is a contagious fungal infection which can present on the scalp or skin.  It is commonly scaly, red and itchy.  It can be spread by direct contact or indirectly from contaminated floors, linens or clothes.

Tocopherol (Vitamin E)

• Is a powerful antioxidant whilst also having moisturising and healing benefits.  Vitamin E is also a natural anti-inflammatory ingredient.

Titanium Dioxide

• Is a UV filter.  It is able to protect the skin from both UVB and UVA.  It is classed as a mineral sunscreen ingredient.

Toner

• Traditionally toners were highly astringent and lead to skin dehydration.  Modern day toners have been designed to rehydrate, balance pH and can even exfoliate the skin.

U

Ultravoilet (UV) radiation

• UV is emitted from the sun rays and even some artificial sources.  UV can cause damage to the skin through sunburn, tanning, skin cancer development, premature ageing and eye changes. There are three types of UV rays.
• UVA
  • UVA is responsible for penetrating the skin more deeply. This ray is responsible for premature ageing.  About 95% of UV rays which reach the earths surface are UVA.
• UVB
  • UVB is responsible for tanning, sunburn and skin cancer development. UVB is partially absorbed by the ozone layer, meaning 5% of UVB rays reach the earths surface.
• UVC
  • UVC is the shortest UV ray.  UVC is filtered out by the ozone layer.  There are some artificial sources of UVC (welding torches, bacteria killing lamps, mercury lamps) and without correct protective equipment these sources can cause serious damage to human tissue.

Urticaria

• Is also known as hives, which is a skin rash which can be triggered by many things; foods, medications, environmental influences and even stress.

V

Vascular Laser

• A vascular laser emits a specific wavelength of light which is absorbed by haemoglobin (red blood cells).

Vitiligo

• Is an acquired depigmenting disorder of the skin where pigment cells are lost.  It presents as well defined white patches of skin.

W

Warts

• Is characterised as a small, fleshy bump on the skin or within mucous membranes which is caused by the human papillomavirus.

X

Xerosis

• Is the medical term for dry skin.  Xerosis is causes by a lack of moisture in the skin.

Y

Z

Zinc

• In skin care has an anti-inflammatory effect and helps with wound healing.